this was our desert trip last fall | part two : the water |

day two of our trip was quite adventurous, keeping us on our toes and our minds alert.
ceej had been down this canyon fifteen years ago...
come to find out this canyon went through drastic changes after a flash flood
swept through here just a few years back.

when ceej went through the canyon fifteen years ago there was no poison ivy
and no pools of water to swim through. guess what?
we had poison ivy to avoid, and to our surprise pools to swim through.

we woke early in the morning to get a good start as we had eight miles
to hike through the river (which takes much longer than you'd think)
and a four hour drive home. we put our we-can-do-it attitudes to the front.

the sun takes a while to reach the depths of the canyon, and so we
were hiking in the cool shade for most of the morning.
which is why when the canyon kept getting more and more narrow
we got more and more nervous that we could have to swim.
i was too cold to enjoy a swim, and did not want to spend the rest
of the hike in a soggy condition.

but it came. the pool. we were going to have to swim.
so andrea and i started stripping down to our underwear in hopes
we would have something dry to put on after the swim.
we were ready. no problem.

ceej went first. we watched him take every step as the water
slowly crept higher up his body: his thighs...his belly...his chest...

and then, to our great delight, the water went no further.
he made it through the water without a swim thanks to a
sandbar that none of us were able to see beforehand.

phew.

so we laughed with relief, and kept moving. lots of ground still to cover.

this canyon, despite all of its unknowns, is one of the most beautiful places
i have ever been.
and we had it all to ourselves. not once did we run into any other hikers
or backpackers in this canyon.
if you're looking for an escape from the world, this is it.
and, as the desert usually is, it's magic.
if you've been, you know what i'm talking about.
if you haven't been, you're always welcome to come out for a visit.

come.





{p.s. so what happened with the poison ivy? i thought i escaped its cruelty. boy, was i wrong. two weeks later the horrible itchy rash broke out on my leg. then as we boarded a plane to hawaii the rash slowly, but furiously, spread to my entire body. worst. plane. ride. ever. nothing could assuage the itch. i spent most of the trip in hawaii trying to stay in the cool ocean water as long as possible, wearing alcohol-drenched bandages wrapped around my arms, soaking in a kiddy pool with baking soda, fighting off itching fits at dinner, taking three-four cold showers throughout the night to try to get some sleep. it was miserable. i think the worst way to die would be by itchiness. stay far, far away from poison ivy. See photos here and here. any pity is welcome. p.p.s ceej got it too, but not nearly as bad. turns out i'm hyper-allergic. lucky me.}

this was our desert trip last fall | part one |

last september ceej, andrea (our good friend from germany), and i headed down south.
to escalante. one of the most remote areas in the country.
this trip took place only one week after i summited the grand teton.
this trip was supposed to be a walk in the park...

of course i'm going to tell you how exhausting it really was,
but i also want to tell you how magnificent it was.

we walked across ancient desert dunes for an hour before we found the trail,
and then we walked for a few more hours in direct sunlight.
the heat was difficult. and this was september. i can't imagine july or august. brutal.

when we finally descended into the river bed we were relieved to find shade
and cool clean water to soak our feet in.

however, the river presented its own hidden misery that we wouldn't know about
until two weeks after our return home: poison ivy (more on that later).

but, oh my. this place is beautiful like no other place.
i will never get over its mystery, its deafening silence, its honesty.

after hiking all day we finally came to a good place to camp for the night.
oh how good it feels to let down a heavy pack, take off your shoes,
and know that sleep is very near--after a very good meal of course.

more of our trip tomorrow.

project grand teton : enjoying sunset at the lower saddle and hoping for a warmer night's sleep

life was good at the lower saddle. food, very casual walks, sunset views, views of the valley below and the huge plume of smoke from a nearby fire (who knew that forest fires could create their own weather systems?! amazing to watch from above). yes, yes indeed. life was good at the lower saddle:


~ throw packs down on the ground at our little walled-in campsite

~ eat a late lunch: 7-grain rolls, havarti cheese, and fig jam for me; + italian salami for the men. luxury.

~ start to add layers as my body cools from rest, and the sun makes its way behind multiple mountain ranges

~ laugh at how hard it is to breathe after taking 5 steps up the hill

~ see group of sixteen high school students make their way to the lower saddle

~ get annoyed at their guide who claims he "owns" this mountain. makes. me. sick.

~ stay far away from guide and sixteen high school students while we watch the beautiful sunset.

~ watch the light paint the peaks as it settles in for the night.

~ eat dinner: pad thai. wasn't that great. but needed the calories.

~ dessert: oatmeal chocolate chip cookies followed by tea for me, hot cocoa for the men.

~ add more layers for fear it will be colder than last night's frost down in the valley.

~ set alarm for 6:00 a.m. tomorrow's a big day. hoping to be back at camp by noon or 1:00 p.m.


all is quiet. the stars kept us cozy. and off to sleep we went...